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VOSNE-ROMANEE PETITS-MONTS
Premier Cru
At
the Petits-Monts, the whole world is at your feet", once said an old vigneron
of Vosne to his son. A lapidary and totally accurate remark : this Premier
Cru vineyard lies at the very top of the slope (the local word in Burgundy
is "creuteu", i.e. the crest), with Richebourg as its illustrious neighbour.
From this tiny vineyard, there is a sweeping view across the valley, as
far as the Jura mountains and even the Alps. Closer are the crown jewels
of the viticultural world : the Grand Crus of Vosne, Clos Vougeot, Musigny.
This is a promontory of choice for anyone who wants to see and understand
Burgundy !
At this height, Petits-Monts is on a steep incline. Its soil is extremely
poor and the yield very low. But everything about the wine spells breed.
Véronique BOSS-DROUHIN, Robert DrOUHIN's daughter, as the owner
of Petits-Monts, is entirely responsible for its production and vinification.
This is an old vineyard : some vines were actually planted in the thirties.
No fertilizers are used. The pruning is very short, ploughing and weeding
are still done by hand. To preserve the genetic heritage of the vineyard,
a dying vinestock is always replaced with a younger one from a neighbouring
vine.
The grapes are still picked by hand and very gently pressed.
The juice is then left to ferment in a small oak vat. The skins and
pips rise to the surface, creating a thick lid called chapeau (hat). Twice
a day, once in the morning, once in the evening (just like in the old days),
this chapeau is punched down manually, and some of the juice pumped over.
This process (pigeage) allows the tannins, perfumes and colouring matter
to blend harmoniously throughout and to maximize the full potential of
the terroir. The fermentation lasts about 18 to 20 days. The must is then
put in oak barrels (Allier, Vosges or Tronçais forests) where, during
the Winter, a second fermentation takes place. Left to age for about 18
months, the wine is fined with egg-whites prior to bottling, a technique
left unchanged through the years.
Petits-Monts has a deep ruby colour and an unusual nose of wild cherry
combining with fine spices such as musk. On the palate, the first impression
is of silk, making place progressively to a more tannic note. In some "light"
vintages, the wine is ready to drink after 5 to 6 years of cellaring. More
often, we must wait 8 to 12 years, and in the really great vintages, 20
to 25 years are necessary.
Petits-Monts should be served at 17 degrees Celsius (62F) with red meat
(roasted especially), but game finds in this wine probably its finest accompaniment. |