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VOLNAY-CLOS DES CHENES
Premier Cru
In
their great wisdom, the ancestors of to-day's vignerons felt compelled
to give a name to each parcel of land which they cultivated. Transmitted
through the ages, these names are like short descriptions, and are still
in use today. Thus, Clos des Chênes in Volnay (the enclosure of the
oaks) : we know that oaktrees grew there even before the arrival of the
vine. The Drouhin family owns a beautiful vineyard in this Premier Cru.
Some notebooks written by Robert's father and grandfather have been handed
down to the present generation and contain a treasuretrove of information
on the vineyard itself and its history : frosts, diseases, soil characteristics,
rebuilding of stone walls, etc. Volnay Clos des Chênes produces a
remarkable wine, especially when tradition is respected. Robert Drouhin
is fond of saying : "Enology is necessary but should never displace our
traditions. If too much technology is used, all wines taste alike. They
become neither good nor bad, just average.
On the other hand, common sense and a deep respect for tradition will
guarantee the individuality and quality that only terroir can offer".
The wine has a gorgeous rubylike colour. Among the aromas, all subtle
and elegant, it is the violet which has made this wine so famous. There
are of course others, just as charming : rose petals and wild strawberries
(fraises des bois) are perceptible and contribute to the overall finesse.
These same impressions are carried through on the palate where they
mingle with a velvety softness and refined tannins.
To the taster, it comes as no surprise that the aftertaste of the wine
is particularly long, flowery and fruity.
In Burgundy, fowl and white meats are the choice accompaniment for Clos
des Chênes : chicken, veal, hare. The cheeses should be on the mild
side.
Graceful and flavourful, Volnay-Clos des Chênes is certainly one
of the most charming Burgundy wines. |